The first warm weekend of spring, you drag the patio chairs out of the shed and find them speckled with grime, a green film creeping along the legs, and cushions that smell like a damp cellar. In autumn the picture is much the same in reverse: a summer of sunscreen, barbecue grease, pollen, and rain has left everything looking tired, and the temptation is to stack it away dirty and deal with it later.
Both times of year are the right moments to clean outdoor furniture, and for the same reason. Dirt that sits through a season of storage bonds to the material, mildew grows in damp cushions, and a set that goes away clean comes out ready to use. A little time spent now saves a much larger job later.
The approach differs by material, and a method that works well on resin chairs can ruin a teak table or a wicker settee. Matching the cleaner to the surface is far more important than scrubbing hard, whether the work is done by the household or by cleaning services.
Start With a Dry Clean and a Look Over
Before using any water, brush off loose leaves, spiders’ webs, and dried mud with a soft broom or brush. Check the furniture for damage as you go. Look for loose joints, rust spots, cracked slats, peeling paint, and splintered wood, because these are easier to deal with while the furniture is empty and accessible.
Check the underside and crevices too, since wasps sometimes nest there, and don’t disturb a nest if you find one.
Move the furniture onto a driveway, a lawn you don’t mind getting wet, or a hard surface that can take drips. Remove cushions and set them aside to be cleaned separately.
Cleaning Resin and Plastic
Resin and plastic furniture are the most forgiving. A bucket of warm water with a few drops of dish soap, a soft brush, and a sponge handle most grime. Work in sections, rinse with a hose on a gentle setting, and let the furniture dry in the shade or sun.
Chalky white patches are caused by UV damage, and washing won’t remove them completely. Avoid abrasive pads and strong solvents, which scratch and dull the finish. For mildew or green algae, a diluted solution of white vinegar and water, or an oxygen bleach product used according to the label, is gentler than chlorine bleach. Never mix bleach with vinegar, ammonia, or other cleaners, because the combination can release dangerous gas.
Metal Frames: Aluminium, Steel, and Wrought Iron
Aluminium doesn’t rust, and warm soapy water and a soft cloth keep it clean. Dry it after rinsing to avoid water marks, and avoid abrasive powders that scratch the finish.
Steel and wrought iron are another matter. Check for rust, which looks like orange or brown spots and flakes. Light rust can be removed with a wire brush or fine sandpaper, then wiped clean and treated with a rust converter or a primer made for metal, followed by outdoor paint. Wear gloves and eye protection when sanding, and work in a ventilated space. Left alone, rust spreads under the paint and weakens the frame.
Glass tabletops can be cleaned with an ordinary glass cleaner or a vinegar and water mix. Check that the glass has no chips or cracks, which can break under pressure.
Wood and Wicker: Where Water Does Damage
Wood and natural wicker are the two materials worth flagging to CJS Cleaning Solutions or anyone else hosing down a patio, because water damages both when it’s used freely.
Teak and other hardwoods weather to a silvery grey if left untreated, and many owners like the look. To clean, scrub gently along the grain with a soft brush and mild soap and water, rinse, and let the wood dry fully. If you prefer the original colour, a teak cleaner and sealer made for outdoor use restores it. Avoid steel wool and wire brushes, which leave marks and can rust.
Painted or stained wood needs a gentle approach so the finish isn’t worn through. Check for peeling and touch up bare patches, since exposed wood absorbs moisture and rots.
Natural wicker, made from rattan or cane, shouldn’t be soaked. Vacuum it with a brush attachment, then wipe with a barely damp cloth and mild soap, and let it dry thoroughly. Wicker made from synthetic resin is tougher and can be hosed gently, but check for fraying strands and loose weaving.
Pressure Washers: Use With Caution
A pressure washer is tempting, and it can lift years of dirt in minutes, but it can also strip paint, roughen wood fibres, split wicker, and force water into joints. A pressure washer that suits paving is the wrong tool for most furniture, so a patio clean booked with CJS Cleaning Solutions or done at home should treat the two separately.
If you do use one on sturdy resin or metal, choose a low setting and a wide fan nozzle, keep the nozzle well back from the surface, and test a hidden area first. Never use it on cushions.
Cleaning Outdoor Cushions
Check the care tag on each cushion first. Many covers zip off and can be machine-washed on a gentle cold cycle, but some are spot-clean only, and heat can shrink the fabric and damage the water-repellent finish. Air dry the covers fully, since a dryer’s heat can ruin them, and tell anyone helping, family or cleaning services, which covers are spot-clean only.
For cushions with covers that don’t come off, use a bucket of lukewarm water with a little mild detergent and a soft brush. Scrub gently, rinse with a hose at low pressure, and then stand the cushion on its edge in the sun and wind to drain and dry. Squeezing out as much water as possible with a clean towel speeds things up.
Foam filling holds water for a long time. A cushion that feels dry on the surface but is damp inside will grow mildew within days, so allow plenty of drying time, ideally a full day or more in warm, dry weather. Turn the cushions regularly to let air reach every face.
For mildew spots, use a diluted oxygen bleach product or the manufacturer’s recommended cleaner, and test a hidden corner first. Strong chlorine bleach can fade colours and weaken stitching.
Storing Furniture So It Comes Out Clean
How you put furniture away matters as much as how you clean it. Everything should be completely dry before it is stored, including the undersides and crevices. A damp cushion in a closed bin is the quickest way to find mould in the spring.
Store cushions indoors in a dry place such as a garage, a shed with ventilation, or a deck box with air gaps. Cover furniture left outside with breathable covers, not plastic sheeting, which traps condensation. Lift legs off bare ground or damp concrete with blocks or pads, and stack chairs where the design allows.
Keeping Things Fresh Between Seasons
Outdoor furniture benefits from small, frequent attention. A quick wipe with a damp cloth every few weeks keeps pollen, bird droppings, and sunscreen from soaking in. Brush off cushions after rain and prop them up so the water drains. Move furniture occasionally so the ground beneath it doesn’t stay damp.
Between seasonal cleans or visits from CJS Cleaning Solutions, a hose-down of resin chairs and a quick check for rust or loose screws keeps the work manageable, and it spares you a heavy scrubbing session when the weather turns.
Deciding Who Cleans the Patio
If the patio set is large, the household can ask cleaning services cary for a quote covering the furniture, the cushions, and the surrounding deck, and describe the materials beforehand. A clear list of what is wicker, what is wood, and which cushions are spot-clean only helps the right method get used on the right surface.
A Clean Start for Every Season
Outdoor furniture stays in good shape when it is checked for damage, cleaned according to its material, dried completely, and stored properly. Resin forgives rough treatment, metal needs rust attention, wood and wicker need restraint with water, and cushions need patience while they dry. Whether the work is done by you or by cleaning services, a little care at the change of season means the furniture is ready the moment the weather is.
